I did it! My goal this summer was to get 5 toes over the nose of my longboard, and I accomplished that this morning. The waves were about waist high, mushy, with a stiff offshore wind. However, they were good for setting up and getting to the nose. I was able to do some cross stepping and I was able to get to the nose of the board with control. I found myself with my toes almost to the nose and the board was still in trim, so I told myself “Just get them on the end!” so I just shifted forward a little and put my toes right up there. The wave petered out on me but I was able to back up and kick out of the wave. So I didn’t fall right off.
I’m hoping to get better at this. It’s tough, but it’s not that hard. I already have a good sense of balance and wave judgment thanks to all the shortboarding I’ve been doing. I’m stoked because I’ve only been seriously trying to do this for about 4 or 5 surf sessions. I really just don’t longboard that much.
Meghan got this great pic of me with the waterproof camera of me cross stepping a few days ago. This is probably one of the smallest waves in the history of surfing haha. Maybe I can photoshop the wave a little bigger….hmmm… 
Welcome to the wonderful world of longboarding, Hayley! It’s quite obvious you have cross stepping down (your style is evident). Now there’s only one place to go – ten over the nose! You’ll be hooked forever!
Thanks Marion! I had another session yesterday evening and the waves got so clean. Got a few longer noserides, not all of them were wrapping my toes over but I’m starting to learn how steep the wave has to be to support me on the nose and I’m getting better at stepping back when the wave gets too fat. So fun, not to mention a killer sunset last night. SToked!!
What kind of board are you riding?
I have a heavy 9′ single fin, but that has been in the shop for ding repair. So in the meantime I borrowed my friend’s 9′ Air and Speed (a local surf shop, ghost shaped by some guy I’ve never heard of). It has a 2+1 cutaway fin setup. It’s not exactly high performance; I’d just call it a run of the mill longboard with a little pulled in square tail. I really like her board – it’s light and easier for me to manage in the waves, and I can still cross step on it just as easily. My single fin is a beast – hard to turn and just very heavy. When I go back to SD I’m going to look for a board similar to my friend’s.
Sounds like you have the best of both worlds! The new longboards are definitely a lot easier to ride. They shape ‘em now to do just about anything you want them to do. My Takayama has a nice square tail w/what they call 60/40 rails and a concave nose. The square tail just digs in the wall of the wave, and w/the 60-40 rails, water just starts pouring over the tail. It basically sends you right to the lip in an almost “automatic trim.” Then, with the concave nose, you’re set to practically “camp out” on the nose. A blast to ride.
But, as hard as they are to get to the beach, there’s nothing like riding those old “logs” to brush up on your skills! Get one of those down, and you can ride anything!
All kinda mute this weekend – we’ve got shortboard waves! Huge swell out there!
Is that you?
yes