I did not have a very good day today. I feel like a lot of things are going wrong and leaving to go back to NY is both welcome and coming at a bad time. Also my affiliate stats were messed up this morning causing me a lot of stress.
In order to try to burn off some of my frustration and anger I decided to go surf a sunset session. I surfed for about an hour and a half, and the waves were surprisingly very fun. It was crowded but I got my share of waves. I also had a technique epiphany about paddling to catch a wave. I subtly put more weight forward and it totally helped as far as being able to get into the wave correctly. It was a very subtle feeling and I’m surprised it has eluded me for so long! I had some bad advice I think, about arching your back, but instead you should put your weight forward. It helped so much and I was really happy with the way I surfed for once. I feel like I have hit a skill plateau lately and haven’t been getting any better, but tonight I feel like I’m getting back to where I want to be and I’ll progress.
I can’t wait to get back home. I am pretty homesick!