Today I surfed twice. I was going to surf early with Val but she was too groggy, so we decided to go after she got out of work instead. But I checked the waves on the way back from Panera (where I usually go in the morning to get breakfast and work on my websites) at around 11am and they looked fun! So I went in for an hour before I had to pick Meghan up from the airport.
The waves were breaking on the shallow sandbar, and they were pretty fast. You had to get to your feet and get going down the line quickly or you’d get eaten by the lip (the breaking part of the wave that curls over and crashes down). It was fun…I got super deep on my first or second wave and the lip hit me in the head and I got so worked. It was one of those wipeouts where you don’t know which way is up. I ended up pushed into the sandbar, my surfboard leash was wrapping around my legs tying my feet together, and I was just covering my head with my arms hoping my board wasn’t near me. It was fun!!!! Usually I don’t like surfing those fast waves that break in shallow water like that, but today I was in the mood to just go for it. I think that I’ll get a lot better if I can just be confident in those conditions and just make sure I’m covering my head when I wipe out.
So it’s fun that Meghan is here now. She’s staying two apartments down in the same unit. Somehow it feels like summer because I always associate her with summer in Montauk (since that’s usually when I see her). So I’m looking forward to our traditional apres surf wine and cheese chow downs, meals outside, and funny conversations.
I had a super late dinner, and I really want to go to sleep–I’m so tired!! But I can’t go to sleep like this…I still feel full. I’m waiting to digest a bit more. I ate too much I guess…I was so hungry. We went to a turkish restaurant nearby which is really cute and good. Super healthy too. Just grilled chicken breast with fresh grilled veggies on a pita with melted provolone cheese with a side of the cucumber sauce. SOOO good. Yum.
I can’t wait to see Star Trek. I’m trying to rope in all my friends to go see it. Some of them are a little wary because it’s STAR TREK. They are probably thinking it’s for a bunch of nerds who live in their mom’s basement. So I had some convincing to do. But it got amazing reviews so far, and I knew I wanted to see it as soon as I saw the previews.