Hot Summer Nights

Meghan left to go back to NY today, and I have one more week here in California.  I can’t believe I’ll have been here for 6 months.  Twice as long as I intended at first!  It’s been super fun here, but I’m definitely excited to go home.

Meghan and I had dinner last night and we were just talking about Montauk and surfing the whole time.  I definitely can’t wait to get back to Long Island for the summer and fall.  It’s a really cool place, and I think that obviously it’s important to me because it’s home.

The thing about surfing on the east end, as opposed to California, is that the surf community is so small.  Everyone knows everyone.  I kind of like that.  I love going to check the surf and seeing people I know.  I love paddling out in Montauk and being with friends.

It’s cool because in Montauk, it’s such a small community that if someone sees you catch a great ride  they’ll compliment you, and even tell their friends, etc.

We might have been looking through rose colored glasses a bit, but the thing about California that I’m not crazy about is that if you just venture out around here in San Diego you’ll likely be surrounded by strangers.  It’s definitely a different vibe.  Now, I’ve come to know familiar faces, especially the Grandview crew, but it’s still kinda different.

Either way, I’m stoked to be going home.  Not sure when I’m going to come back to California though.  Probably October.  Maybe mid-October.  I know I’m not going to want to leave while things are still fun back home.  However, I know I’m coming back to California for sure.  I just don’t think I can live in NY full time.  Well, I will see where life takes me this time!

Posted in Random Thoughts, Surfing | No Comments »

I was just thinking about this yesterday - I’m pretty happy that since I’ve been out to California I have NOT turned my back on the surf because I was scared.  I used to do this when I was scared of the waves and didn’t feel like I was able to handle the conditions.  However, since I’ve been in California I’ve surfed some pretty decent sized waves and I’ve been totally fine.  There have been days where I was a little nervous, but never fearful.

When I started surfing I would get all suited up, get down to the water, and then get totally psyched out and not paddle out.  That was totally demoralizing.  I actually did that last fall when we had a fairly decent sized hurricane swell.  I know now that I would now be able to paddle out into those waves confidently.

It’s pretty cool.  I guess it also speaks to the fact that the California Winter season has been very sub-par.  I don’t think the waves ever got above 6-7 feet here this year.

The California surf spots are also a bit easier to surf when it’s big because they don’t DUMP in heavy shorebreak like they do on Long Island.  I’m not saying that I’ll never turn tail again, but I’m stoked on the fact that I’m getting so much more confident in the water.

In two weeks I’ll be heading to Hawaii with Val for a week to hit up the South Shore.  I’m getting excited - last time I went to Hawaii (two months ago) it wasn’t really a surf trip.  I did surf and I did bring my board, but it wasn’t really about surfing.  This time all we’re going to do is surf.  Well, not all, but that will be the primary focus.  Then on July 10 I’ll be back home in NY to soak up some Hamptons sunshine.

Posted in Random Thoughts, Surfing | No Comments »

I did not have a very good day today.  I feel like a lot of things are going wrong and leaving to go back to NY is both welcome and coming at a bad time.  Also my affiliate stats were messed up this morning causing me a lot of stress.

In order to try to burn off some of my frustration and anger I decided to go surf a sunset session.  I surfed for about an hour and a half, and the waves were surprisingly very fun.  It was crowded but I got my share of waves.  I also had a technique epiphany about paddling to catch a wave.  I subtly put more weight forward and it totally helped as far as being able to get into the wave correctly.  It was a very subtle feeling and I’m surprised it has eluded me for so long!  I had some bad advice I think, about arching your back, but instead you should put your weight forward.  It helped so much and I was really happy with the way I surfed for once.  I feel like I have hit a skill plateau lately and haven’t been getting any better, but tonight I feel like I’m getting back to where I want to be and I’ll progress.

I can’t wait to get back home.  I am pretty homesick!

Posted in Random Thoughts, Surfing | No Comments »

Sorry for the lack of posts!  Memorial day weekend was long, but fun.  We kicked it off by going to a concert in Solana Beach.  We saw M83, an electronic/pop group.  I was so excited to see them because I had been listening to them since last spring.  It’s always fun to see a group you’re familiar with.

We went surfing several times, and hung out on the beach, went out to a few parties and clubs.  So yeah, pretty darn busy!

I’m currently reading Mere Christianity by C.S. Lewis.  As far as I’m concerned, C.S. Lewis is a genius.  Everything I’ve read from him makes so much sense, rings so true, and is so sensitive, caring, and balanced.  I’ve read “Screwtape Letters,” which was so good it hurt - in a good way.  It just opens up your eyes to things that you just don’t really think about normally.  You just find yourself putting the book down after you finish a section and staring off into space as you absorb the weight of what you just read.

Anyway, the first part of Mere Christianity deals with thinking logically about how the morality of our human race came about.  Lewis makes a great argument, and it reminds me of my days in philosophy class.  (I’m actually starting to think that taking that philosophy 101 class in Michigan as a credit filler was a great, great addition to my education.  It’s always those random classes that are the best ones it seems…).  Basically he argues that humans have this curious idea that there is a way they should behave, and that they do not behave this way (all the time).

This law of human nature seems to have come from something outside the universe.  CS Lewis was an atheist before he became a Christian.  In the second part of the book he writes:

My argument against God was that the universe seemed so cruel and unjust.  But how had I got this idea of just and unjust?  A man does not call a line crooked unless he has some idea of a stright line.

I mean, it’s pretty smart thinking.  I don’t normally think about the basic concepts of Christianity…the logic behind it all.  I really think that all Christians should go back and read C.S. Lewis so they can screw their heads on straight again.  One of my biggest problems with Christianity are all the loudmouth Christians out there making clowns of themselves and Christianity.

Posted in Random Thoughts | No Comments »

New small wave surfboard! 5′5″ shaped by Matt Muhlethaler. Can’t wait to ride it!

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

Last night at around 8:30 pm Pacific Time I felt my first earthquake. Apparently it originated a bit south of Los Angeles Airport, and it was a magnitude 5. I can’t believe we felt it all the way down here in San Diego! It felt so weird. I was sitting at my computer, which is on a card table. The table itself is kind of flimsy, so it started swaying. I also heard a slight rumble. I felt myself move to, the whole apartment was moving back and forth. I thought I saw the walls move but I think it was the overall effect of me moving and the table moving. It was so cool! I missed the earthquake that happened when we were all in Palm Desert, and I was bummed about that.

So far California is acting completely in character…earthquakes, fires, and the marine layer (which is making it cloudy every day on the coast).

LA Times article about the quake

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

Today I surfed twice. I was going to surf early with Val but she was too groggy, so we decided to go after she got out of work instead. But I checked the waves on the way back from Panera (where I usually go in the morning to get breakfast and work on my websites) at around 11am and they looked fun! So I went in for an hour before I had to pick Meghan up from the airport.

The waves were breaking on the shallow sandbar, and they were pretty fast. You had to get to your feet and get going down the line quickly or you’d get eaten by the lip (the breaking part of the wave that curls over and crashes down). It was fun…I got super deep on my first or second wave and the lip hit me in the head and I got so worked. It was one of those wipeouts where you don’t know which way is up. I ended up pushed into the sandbar, my surfboard leash was wrapping around my legs tying my feet together, and I was just covering my head with my arms hoping my board wasn’t near me. It was fun!!!! Usually I don’t like surfing those fast waves that break in shallow water like that, but today I was in the mood to just go for it. I think that I’ll get a lot better if I can just be confident in those conditions and just make sure I’m covering my head when I wipe out.

So it’s fun that Meghan is here now. She’s staying two apartments down in the same unit. Somehow it feels like summer because I always associate her with summer in Montauk (since that’s usually when I see her). So I’m looking forward to our traditional apres surf wine and cheese chow downs, meals outside, and funny conversations.

I had a super late dinner, and I really want to go to sleep–I’m so tired!! But I can’t go to sleep like this…I still feel full. I’m waiting to digest a bit more. I ate too much I guess…I was so hungry. We went to a turkish restaurant nearby which is really cute and good. Super healthy too. Just grilled chicken breast with fresh grilled veggies on a pita with melted provolone cheese with a side of the cucumber sauce. SOOO good. Yum.

I can’t wait to see Star Trek. I’m trying to rope in all my friends to go see it. Some of them are a little wary because it’s STAR TREK. They are probably thinking it’s for a bunch of nerds who live in their mom’s basement. So I had some convincing to do. But it got amazing reviews so far, and I knew I wanted to see it as soon as I saw the previews.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

I’m wondering if folks have been hearing about this teacher from Southern California who has been taken to court regarding his incendiary remarks about creationism.

http://www.ocregister.com/articles/corbett-class-religion-2402308-people-kids

The level of hypocrisy I’m seeing from the evolutionist side is pretty bad. So many people are praising this guy as a great teacher, as something this country needs more of.

Wait, WHAT?

Are you kidding me? If this teacher was a creationist, and the student was an evolutionist, they’d be calling for his head on a plate! This country needs teachers that provoke thoughtful, respectful debate - NOT soapbox rants that add NOTHING to our society except intolerance and resent. I’m sorry, but if that’s the best he can do to “provoke” his students then he needs to go back to teaching school.

And for the record, I do not condone the Christians who are countering the evolutionists on this matter with their own brand of ranting and intolerance. We need to stick to the facts here people. Public schools can teach evolutionism - fine. I think that evolution can mesh with creationism. I can learn about different points of view without feeling my faith is threatened. However, after hearing some of the remarks this teacher made (on the recorded audio) I’d be hard pressed to have any respect for him. Is he teaching History, or is he grinding his ax on a captive audience?

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

Being sick sucks!  I started coming down with a cold on Thursday.  Went surfing and realized that…I couldn’t surf.  I was such a kook…blew two takeoffs and ended up riding the waves on my stomach, and got chucked over the falls on another wave.  Couldn’t figure out why my arms weren’t working…until later in the day when my throat started hurting I started to realize I was getting sick.  Yesterday I was pretty much immobile, and today I’m just staying in again.

It’s just a cold but I am super stuffed, and I have a big headache and body aches.  No fever though, which is good I guess.

Michelle stopped by for lunch and brought me some chicken soup and chips and guac from La Especial Norte, which is a cool traditional Mexican place.  It was nice to have some social contact because I’ve been cooped up.

I also took some Advil Cold & Sinus, which is a wonder drug.  It helps soooooo much.

Other than how much it sucks being sick, it’s a good chance to sit around and catch up on reading.  I’m finishing Twilight so I can watch the movie.  It’s such a quick read, and it’s really basic (written for pre-teens I guess) so it’s perfect for my half-functioning brain right now.

I passed Ponto on my way to Rite Aid to buy my Advil and it looked like it was firing.  Sucks…wish I were surfing.

Posted in Random Thoughts | No Comments »

I haven’t really been updating this thing…so here’s a quick and dirty update…

Went up to Whistler with Bid (aka Alicia Bidwell) and her friends.  I could NOT believe how beautiful British Columbia is, and Vancouver, and the drive up on the Sea To Sky highway (coolest name for a road ever).  And then the mountain itself…the view from the peak was incredible.  We were above the clouds and the treeline, and it felt like I was on another planet.  Truly an experience I will never forget.

Sometimes I’m kinda glad I didn’t travel much up until about a year ago.  I think I’m appreciating the variety of the world so much more, and I don’t take it for granted.

The surf here has not been too great.   Very small and weak, and it’s frustrating.  Had a few fun sessions on Quadzilla, and last night some dolphins swam VERY close to me, I’m talking like 8 feet away.  It really startled me!  They were also surfing.  I love how dolphins play around.  They ride waves just like surfers.  Last night was a surprise session…almost too many fun waist high waves and only me and a couple other people.  Then it kinda turned off and got crowded.  Them’s the breaks.

I don’t know how the Californians do it…afternoon sessions are torture because you’re looking straight west at the sun.  On Long Island we’re facing primarily South/Southeast, so we don’t really have that problem.

I surfed Swami’s yesterday, and I’m over it.  Yeah, wasn’t the best day there since the waves were weak and small, but on a shortboard it’s just an exercise in frustration.  Too many people in such a small area.  I’ll take a beachbreak any day.

Two weeks ago I spent a few days visiting with Betty and Evelyn in Santa Barbara.  We surfed the iconic Rincon, and the talent level there is unbelievable.  Kelly Slater was there, and I was in the lineup 5 feet away from him.  I didn’t talk to him, but it was neat to share the lineup with such a living legend.  He has the most beautiful green eyes…you have to see them in person.

I’m going to Oahu on March 19th!  I am sooooo stoked.  I want to surf, but I’m a little worried because I keep hearing all about how much power is in the waves in Hawaii, and how it’s a whole different surfing animal altogether.  However, we’ll be visiting with Cat, and hopefully she can point me to an easier spot.

Posted in Random Thoughts, Surfing, Travels | No Comments »