“Real isn’t how you are made,’ said the Skin Horse. ‘It’s a thing that happens to you. When a child loves you for a long, long time, not just to play with, but REALLY loves you, then you become Real.’
Does it hurt?’ asked the Rabbit.
Sometimes,’ said the Skin Horse, for he was always truthful. ‘When you are Real you don’t mind being hurt.’
Does it happen all at once, like being wound up,’ he asked, ‘or bit by bit?’
It doesn’t happen all at once,’ said the Skin Horse. ‘You become. It takes a long time. That’s why it doesn’t happen often to people who break easily, or have sharp edges, or who have to be carefully kept. Generally, by the time you are Real, most of your hair has been loved off, and your eyes drop out and you get loose in the joints and very shabby. But these things don’t matter at all, because once you are Real you can’t be ugly, except to people who don’t understand.”
real.
November 27th, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink
cloudy day grinds
November 10th, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink
I was fortunate to be asked to participate in a project a few weeks ago for Amanda Curry’s Good Food Factory television show. She wants to feature kids in their element doing action sports as part of her overall theme of living a healthy lifestyle. This video is my personal creative edit…I will be doing another one to feature on her show that will be slightly different.
some recent photos
November 10th, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink
last night at San Onofre state beach
margaux at cardiff
out to sea
singlefin
naptime
chasing flocks
Santa Anas
November 3rd, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink
The Santa Anas bring hot desert winds, grooming the waves into perfect blue lines
santa ana morning at pipes
….
October 26th, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink
yes, I’m going to find the quiet peaceful corner of the coffee shop, where people are reading and working, and take my moaning crying baby and sit RIGHT their face. Yep. I’m sooooo considerate.
….
Oside Slash
October 24th, 2011 § 1 comment § permalink
My friend Chris Grant (of JettyGirl) is an amazing surf photographer, and I was lucky enough to get a shot from him. This is from July, right before I left for New York. This was the first time I was surfing with a photographer on the beach shooting ME specifically, and after a couple good waves I turned into a spaz because I was just trying so hard to surf well. Once I start pressing like that I don’t surf very good and I kept falling and just blowing it. However, he just sent me this photo on Facebook. I had no idea he had any good shots from that day. Needless to say I was pretty stoked! (click the picture to make it bigger)
Backhand Off The Closeout, Oceanside Pier
Car Alarms
October 19th, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink
Someone new moved in on Avocado st, and their car alarm goes off at least once or twice a day. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. It’s the most annoying thing in the world! Do car alarms actually stop theft?! They just annoy the crap out of everyone because it goes off every time a freaking ant sneezes in Madagascar.
Empty Lowers
October 11th, 2011 § 1 comment § permalink
Another video – met up with Californian Sara Taylor and Argentinian Ornella Pellizzari to shoot some footage at Lowers. It turned into an epic marathon session with only one other person out for the majority of the time. For those who know, finding Lowers that empty is akin to winning the lottery. Check it out:
PB Surf Club / Cardiff Challenge
October 9th, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink
The Finals - THEY SPELLED MY NAME RIGHT!!!!!! WOW
Another weekend, another surf contest!
This one was a sanctioned longboard club contest. There are longboard clubs all up and down the California coast – Pacific Beach Surf club, Windansea surf club, Cardiff surf club, Swami’s Surfing Association, Malibu Surfing Association, Long Beach Surf Club…etc. You get the idea haha.
Anyway, these clubs get together and hold contests. It’s generally longboard, but they have shortboard heats and stand up paddle heats too.
Otis, a guy I met out surfing in Cardiff, recruited me to do some contests for the Cardiff Surf Club. I was flattered that he asked me, and so I told him I’d do the first one that I could (a couple I couldn’t attend since I was either busy or in NY). So that was this one.
I was sent the heat sheets a few days ago, and was dismayed to see that I was almost entering the Roxy Pro – two very very good professional surfers in my heat – a 2 time world champ and a runner up to the world champ. Greaaat. Haha. Make it easy for me. Well, Jen was traveling I think so she withdrew, but Kaitlin was still in the contest. The funny thing is, my two longboards were Kaitin’s boards. I bought them off our mutual friend Max. I had never met Kaitlin, but out in the water she was like “did you get that board from a guy?” I was like “Yeah Max.” She said “That’s my board!” So I said “are you Kaitlin?” It was so funny. Anyway….as far as the contest went, I did well in the first heat considering the people I was up against. I managed to get a clean noseride on an insider, and I think that’s what propelled me over the other girl, Nicole, to give me 3rd place. She placed ahead of me in the Summer Longboard Classic in June, so I was stoked to do a little better this time.
The final was tough, but there were still some good waves rolling through. I managed to pull a clean noseride and finish the wave through to the inside, and that was my best wave in the heat. Got a couple other waves, a couple sunk noserides. I’ve only been longboarding for about a year, so I’m pretty stoked on my results. I mean, these other girls have years and years of experience over me.
The contest jerseys they give you to wear in the water are ridiculously oversized (I guess to accomodate the big guys…everyone has to share). I nearly drowned in mine when I lost my board. First of all, I fell off and the shirt came over my face, and then trying to swim in it was like trying to swim in a bathrobe. I wasn’t going very fast.
There are a million little flies on the beach too for some reason, and as I was running to get in the water for my first heat I inhaled one. Yes. Inhaled. It went in my windpipe. I coughed it up. It was DISGUSTING. So I was surfing my first heat coughing up pieces of fly. Yeah, not optimal.
Overall a nice day at the beach. Taking a break now and having some food while I wait for the results/awards ceremony. I’ll come back and post the results.
——
UPDATE – So I got 4th place overall. I’m actually really happy with this. The girls that placed above me are really good, so hats off to them. I’m stoked to even be in the same contest since, again, I’ve only been longboarding a year. It’s an improvement over the longboard contest I entered back in June, where I got 6th place overall. So, movin on up!
First Round
Surf Film Trailer
October 5th, 2011 § 0 comments § permalink
I cut a short trailer for the little surf film I’m working on. It’s not a full length film by any means, it’s going to be very short. However, it’s taking some time to complete since I want all the clips to be grade A. No ho-hum waves.